Roads were made for journeys not destinations – Confucius
In September 2008 we went to China. My friend was going on a business trip and asked if I wanted to join. China was not a destination in my top 10, but curious as I am I just went along.
First stop Shanghai, a metropole with over 25 milion inhabitants. It is denser populated than our home country. A scary thought. Our hotel was in the old centre Puxi, at walking distance from the Bund with a view on the new modern financial centre Pudong. The contrast could not be bigger. Our first visit are the Yuyuan gardens (originated in the 1550’s) with its historic buildings, small shops and Koi swimming around in the pond. In the background the large steel and glass towers from the financial district show how much has changed in the years.
The Bund is a 1.5 km long promenade along the main river (part of the Jiangtsekiang delta), with large buildings from a more recent past. They show the influence of foreign countries during the Shanghai International Settlement end of the 19th century.
We leave Shanghai and fly to Yichang and visit Chexi, a Folk Custom Village, showing the life how it was years ago. We see some nice tranquil sites, people wearing traditional clothing, learn the skill of making paper and visit ‘the spot to make free photos’. A very nice stop in the countryside, but Yichang is mainly known for its controversial Three Gorges Dam. So, next stop is the dam. A very ugly scar in the landscape. Many people, even whole villages needed to move for this prestigeous project, and many people moved to this city to find work. In just a few years the number of inhabitants doubled a few times, making it a the second city of the canton. The centre is not particularly charming, except for the evening activities on the Yiling square. People are joining there every night to talk, dance, practice tai-chi. We enjoy ourselves, dance with teethless chinese men and of course we cannot leave without an evening of karaoke. Hilarious and a must do in China I would say.
The next day we take a night train to Sanjiang. Another adventure. Not able to communicate with our fellow travellers in chinese, we just show them in our Lonely Planet where we are going. Pretty sure we made friends forever. A taxi brings us to Chengyang, a very, very beautiful historic town with a superb ‘Wind and Rain’ bridge. The inhabitants are Dong, a minority living in this area. With their very primitive way of living, they are skilled wood workers, building the most impressive bridges, houses and drum towers. I am overwhelmed by the simplicity and happiness of the people we meet. This is a part of China I should have put in my top 10 of must-see-places!
Next day a driver takes us to another Dong town called Zhaoxing. We pass tea plantations, small temples, more wind & rain bridges and are impressed by the beautiful countryside. The road is a horrible dirtroad with obstacles we need to pass and we even have to wait for a bulldozer to free the road from debris from a landslide. Finally we arrive in a lovely village, full of wooden buildings, drum towers, bridges and red chili peppers and blue dyed cloth. It is a pretty village in a lush green countryside with many rice paddies. We make a nice hike and enjoy the views. Again, people are very friendly and happy, making it easy for us to forgive them their habits of eating rat and dog. Yes, we saw it with our own eyes and had many difficulties to convince people we were vegetarians (just for those few days). I usually try a lot, but this was too much for me.
We proceed our trip to Ping’an village, part of the Guilin Longji Terraced Fields. Another tourist spot, this time famous for its large scale of rice paddies on the mountain, stacked up to form a rather spectacular view. During a nice hike through the landscape these views get better and better after every turn we make. We stay with a family who makes their own rice wine and serves us the most fresh duck ever. One minute it is quacking on the doorstep, the next we see the beak and feet floating in our soup… The next day we had a farewell breakfast with rice wine. We needed it, especially with the kamikaze taxi driver who would be bringing us to Yangshuo.
Arriving in Yanfshuo country I see the amazing karst peaks along the Li river. They are a geological and natural wonder I would say. We take a bamboo raft tour along the river and enjoy the site in a very easy pace, followed by a bicycle ride to Moon hil. This is the centre of a vivid rock climbing scene, which brings along English language, hamburgers and lots and lots of shops. A very cosy, laid back town!
We fly back to Shanghai to spend a few more hours in the Yuyuan inner garden, a compact and exquisite area with rocks, pavilions, ornamental ponds and flower walls. Our last stop is Pudong. The hi-tec financial district on the other side of the river. A funny metro with sound and light show brings us to the other side of the rive. We stand next to, as well as on the panoramic platform of the prominent Orientel Pearl tv tower, enjoying stunning views. We finish our lovely trip with a view on the sunset and lightshow in the evening.
再见 – goodbye