For me, Hawaii is volcano. My main goal of this trip is to see the Kilauea, Halema’uma’u crater and more. Lava, steaming vents, sulphur smell… well, we are on the right island. Big Island, land of Pele, beach boys and… 5 gigantic volcanoes. Mauna Loa even being the biggest volcanomon earth, calculated in mass from the sea floor. It looks like a small hill, but the top is over 4000m high.
We arrive in the dark, in the mist. However, the next morning is nice. Sort of clear, blue sky, few clouds. The park is at around 3500ft/1000m, so temperstures are very comfortable. Much sun cream is applied until we are very sticky at the end of the day. Off we go. Steaming vents, check, sulphur banks, check, crater rim road and… Kilauea with the Halema’uma’u crater, check. Wow, impressive. This thingy is huge and steaming from the main crater. This is absolutely amazing. How can a place so beautiful be so dangerous as well. The stupid thing is, we all drive, walk, relax in this place, which endures earthquakes every day and it has a very, very active volcano underneath. Well, a hot-spot even. I do not care about the danger, even though our American hosts like to point it out on every corner of the street. Every parking or edge of the rim has multiple signs stating all the hazards, dangers, do not’s. Ah well, I just wanna see, wanna feel, wanna hear, wanna smell. Just using all my senses, except for tasting. I am not a geologist and will not be licking rocks 😆
The weather forecast for the afternoon is not completely dry, so we decide to just drive past all touristic and scenic sites. Pit craters, echo crater, lava flows from 1979, 1974, 1973, a nice sea arch at the ocean, a road which has been over flown by lava in the 70s , some ancient petroglyphs and finally a very nice lava tunnel. So many sites to visit, all telling their own story of how tiny we are compared to the power of volcanoes.
Tired of driving and the many impressions we go to the crater rim after sunset to hopefully see the lava glow in the Halema’uma’u crater. Unfortunately clouds have come again and visibility is close to zero. No glow at all, which seems to be very rare according to the rangers. We go ‘home’, where we have a very nice ‘doggy bag’ leftover meal from the supersized Thai dinner yesterday. While eating a great idea pops up in our minds. In the mornings the sky seems to be clear, why not catch the glow in the dark before sunrise. We set the alarm at 4am.
4am, my alarm is buzzing. I silence it. Don’t want to get up. I check the window and decide it is very misty. After 10 minutes my friend says something and leaves the room. What the…? After few minutes she returns. She checked the webcam and it is clear and glowing in the pit. I check the window again… oh, it is condensation. Hmmm… well, why not. We get up, dress quickly and head off. 4:40am we are standing at the rim of the crater. We are definitely not the only lunatics and feel very fortunate to be able to see this. It is so beautiful. We enjoy every second, feel no cold (until our fingers are not able to operate our camera buttons anymore) and stay until the sun has risen. Wow, just wow…
We plan to hike the trail in the Kilauea Iki crater. We want to do this 6km trail before we have to check-out from the hostal. A very nice hike along and through this crater, which will take us 3 hours to complete. We are enjoying every moment, warming up a bit, seeing very strange landscapes of lava flow, with both pahoehoe and a’a lava. Along the way I remember we did not yet have breakfast and decide in the middle of the crater it is time for some food. What a nice place for a picnic. We have to go back to the hostal to get our luggage, but we will come back in the afternoon. Why not…
And so we did. In the afternoon we hike the nice trail to Pu’u Huluhulu and Mauna Ulu. Not too difficult, but again very nice. It is like walking on chips, you hear the crisping sound of breaking lava under your feet all the time. The view is nice, unfortunately clouds again come in, blocking the sun. Along the way we see lava creations with round holes in them. Tree stems, there were trees there when the lava came down. The trees are long gone, but the prints and shape of the stems are still clearly visible. Amazing! En route to the top of the view point at the end of the trail we meet a couple of Nene goose. They slowly walk the same trail. We do not want to disturb them, as they are probably nesting somewhere. Strange place for them, but hey, why not… The end of the day ends wet again. Rain is pouring down again. Time to move on (unfortunately) to Kea’au, on to our next airbnb host.
Aloha Kilauea, until we meet again!