To travel, to experience and learn: that is to live – Tenzing Norgay Sherpa
In March 2018 one of my longest travel dreams came true. I traveled to the highest mountain range in the world, the Himalaya’s. No, it is even better, I hiked for 2 weeks between the giants in the Annapurna range and experienced the nature, the silence, the great food and the lovely people of Nepal.
After my flight I arrive in Kathmandu. A chaotic city with many, many cars and motorized bikes trying to find their way. It is too crowded in rush hour and very interesting to see ruminating cows lying in the middle of this chaos. Their holy status protects them from being hit. My taxi finds his way to my hotel through this chaos and it is there where I meet my group of trekking buddies. I am excited, this is where it really starts.
The next morning we drive per bus and jeep (facing the traffic chaos again and also the challenging dirt roads) to Besi Sahar and finally Syange. We check in in a tea house with view on the beautiful waterfalls. It isn’t all that bad. The food is good, the bed is good, the surroundings are very nice and the company interesting. After the first night sleep, we still drive for some 45 minutes to Jagat, the starting point of our trek. Finally we can start walking. It is one of the longest days to start with. We will go all the way to Bagarchhap (2100m), roughly 21 km in a nice valley, along a rough and winding river. For me the scenery is very spectacular. We trek as a group and even our porters stay with us most of the way.
The next days we go to Chame (14 km, 2700m) and Upper Pisang (17 km, 3320m). The scenery changes with us climbing higher and higher. We keep on following the river, it’s sound has a calming effect on me. We see the first snowy tops of the Lamjung Himal, Manaslu (8156m) and Annapurna II (7937m). This is what I wanted to see. At lunch I eat my first Dal Bhat, and it tastes good. I love this country, everything just fits me in a way…
Slowly but steadily we gain altitude with every step we take. As we reach the scary 4000m in Manang, it is mandatory to do an acclimatization hike in the afternoon. We then just go up a few hundred meters, have a chat, enjoy the view and scenery and go back down to the tea house. All to prevent AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). Another thing is to drink a liter of fluids per 1000m height. It is tough, but in the end it helped me. I had no symptoms whatsoever.
After Pisang we arrive in Manang (18 km, 3500m). My heart is pumping a bit more by now as the oxygen level goes down. The craving for sweetness is not less though. In Manang we find a number of bakeries with the most fabulous pies and pastry. Chocolate brownies with real grinded coffee in this magical setting… this must be heaven. We stay here for 2 days to do some acclimatization again. First we go up to the stupa on the hill behind the tea house (3650m), the next day we cross the river and hike up (3850m) to some holy viewpoints with many prayer flags and beautiful views of the glacier and its lake. Along the way I turn every praying wheel, chanting ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’. For good Karma I am told, but I also ask for nice weather. You never know.
Day 5 we hike to Yak Kharka and cross the 4000m line. The line where the oxygen levels are reduced to 50% of normal (at home). The afternoon hike goes uphill again (4150m) and introduces us to the yak. Yak are big, hairy cattle which are roaming around, just like all other cattle in this country. A bit more wild though, so we take a bit more care.
In the meantime, temperature goes down as well. The nights are freezing and the down sleeping bag finally comes in handy. So far we are Lucky with the weather, so at daytime hiking in shirt still is comfortable. Last stop before the highest pass is Thorung Phedi (9 km, 4500m). Nothing much, but the setting is absolutely impressive. High mountains all around us, it is the end of the valley. We see snow, impressive peaks and still enjoy beautiful weather (twisting the prayer wheels pays off). The afternoon hike (4800m)shows us the first bit of tomorrows track. We will start in the dark, so we won’t be able to see it then.
The first part of this trek is amazing. We have seen so many different landscapes, met very friendly people, eat some delicious Dal Bhat and walked many kilometers. And it isn’t over yet… (more to come soon).
Climb mountains not so the world can see you, but so you can see the world – unknown