There is no such hill as a Limburg hill – Scubajo
After almost a week I enter the 2 provinces where my parents were born and where basically my history started. First I cycle through a small bit of Limburg.
Just south of the Berg and Dal region from part 2 I take a sidestep to the Mookerheide (Heather field of Mook). I would have passed blindly, but I have some time and am very curious. Lucky me. What a beautiful hill, purple from the blooming Heather, with spectacular views on the west bank of the river Maas. Then a somewhat boring part along the river. Until Gennep where I have lunch. I cross the river and am in the next province.
The province where my cradle has been. Again the roads proceed along the river, through corn fields. Worth mentioning are the small hedges planted between the fields to act as a ‘natural’ border. This has been done probably since the 15th century already. And to be honest, that was it already. I drive back into Limburg. These ‘borders’ are sometimes a bit strange. For me it does not matter. My route goes south.
Just passed the border and I meet a friendly mountain biker who accompanies me to my campsite. We have a coffee on the way, and even though I do not know the guy, this encounter is inspirational. I love Limburg. I stay in Lottum on a campsite at a farm, completely with pigs, fancy chickens, rabbits and guinee pigs. Lovely.
The next day I pass Venlo, Blerick, Baarlo, all cities along the Maas river. The views are spectacular. The Maas is a rain river, causing the water levels vary a lot. In order to be able to sail the river, a number of weirs have been build. To pass them and see the difference in water levels is impressive. At some point my route turns inland to pass a nice forest area called ‘Leudal’. Today is a bit wet and the sandy path tricky. At the bottom of the valley I find again a nice water mill. Nobody is here, just me and some squirrels. I pass a few castles and start realising that Limburg is very well known for the rich history and large number of castles (over 250)!
I pass the historic white town of Thorn and briefly enter Belgium to visit Maaseik and return to Limburg, by simply crossing the river. The landscape changes a bit, small hill appear and the towns I pass all have a nice historic centre. Roosteren, Obbicht, Berg, Urmond. I see many castles and manors and admire the perfect state they are in. Most of them are still inhabited, which explains why they are maintained so well.
The road goes East now. I pass a castle I knew from stories, but never visited before. Chateau St. Gerlach is a hotel & event location and is located in an absolutely fabulous setting. The scenery is beautiful and some of nice pieces of art are presented in the garden. On the day I was there, there was a Lamborghini Islero day. Some very nice historic cars were showed in the park. Via very touristic Valkenburg I enter a small forested area, pass a few crucifixes, turn right and am surprised by a very, very nice castle called Schaloen.
Knowing the plateau of Margraten is ahead, I am still hit hard by this elevated area. The road goes up steeply and I am stuck. The 15kg on my bike is pulling me back. Man, I feel my legs, but wow it is so pretty here! I deserve a real nice piece of typical Limburg cake called ‘Vlaai’. The views are great, the weather is certainly helping a lot and I reach the end of my trip. Official end is at the border in a small ugly town called Withuis. I simply cross and turn back. For me personally the end is the Pietersberg, our highest mountain. I turn North, follow the river Maas again, cross per ferry, cycle a bit through Belgium and get to the mountain. Struck by surprise I see we are basically dig out this mountain. It is made of limestone formed in the Cretaceous when there was a sea in this area. Perfect material for building, so we dig. I cycle up a mountain bike path (regret it halfway), visit a small limestone cave and go down on the other side. The end of my tour is the city centre of Maastricht. Buildings, people, traffic… I take the train home. This was a very, very nice experience…
“U can’t buy happiness but U can buy a bicycle. That’s pretty close…”